Sheffield to Orkney by train and ferry
Last updated: October 2024
The Orkney islands are not the most accessible destination, but worth visiting. They’re a great destination if you love neolithic sites, a rough climate, and long summer days (or short winter ones). There are also plenty of options to explore cliffs and beaches on foot or by bike. Travelling from England and continental Europe to Orkney without flying is definitely possible, but lends itself especially to lovers of ‘slow travel’. Because train schedules cannot always be trusted, I would advice being flexible and allowing time for possible delays. Below, you will find my recommended route for travelling from northern England to Orkney using trains and an overnight ferry.
Booking tickets
Below, I have outlined the route my husband and I took to travel to Orkney by train, included some tips for both directions, and compared this journey to flying. We have now travelled twice on this route with 2 people and 2 bikes. For longer train routes like this, it’s necessary to reserve bike spots in advance when buying your passenger ticket. We booked our tickets through Trainline, which meant getting 1/3rd of the price off with a railcard! Getting a railcard is definitely worth it if you regularly travel within the UK by train. Also keep in mind that the ferry to Kirkwall (Orkney’s capital) does not sail every day. Especially in summer, ferry tickets may be more expensive and cabins do sell out.
Sheffield to Orkney
Train 1: Sheffield > Edinburgh Waverley
Train 2: Edinburgh Waverley > Aberdeen
Optional overnight stay in Aberdeen
Ferry: Aberdeen > Kirkwall
The first time we travelled from Sheffield to Orkney, we left late in the afternoon and arrived in Aberdeen around 22:00. We had a minor delay on the first train, so we had to hurry a little in order to catch the second one. The first train came all the way from Penzance, so this route if also suitable for people travelling from the south of England. Getting from Sheffield to Aberdeen will take between 6 and 7 hours, with a transfer in either York or Edinburgh. Because we arrived so late, we booked a B&B in Aberdeen. We used next day to cycle to Drum Castle and have lunch at Foodstory in the city. After that, we boarded the ferry about an hour before departure at 17:00 and arrived in Kirkwall at 23:00.
When taking an early train from Sheffield in the morning, you can make it to Kirkwall within one day. This is what we did on our second trip to Orkney. It still allows for a decent amount of leeway time in case there are train disruptions. I would advise against booking a cabin, pod or recliner chair on the way to Orkney, since you’re not spending a full night on the ferry.
Orkney to Sheffield
Ferry: Kirkwall > Aberdeen
Train 1: Aberdeen > York
Train 2: York > Doncaster
Train 3: Doncaster > Sheffield
On the way back, it’s much more doable to travel within one day, as the ferry arrives in Aberdeen as early as 07:00. We always use the morning to get breakfast at Foodstory (can you tell how much we love that place?!). For the way back, it’s worth booking a place to sleep on the ferry.
A cabin adds quite a lot to the total price of your ticket, so it’s only really worth the money if you desperately need a good night’s sleep and are able to fill all beds. If you’re good at sleeping on a plane or bus, reserving a pod is the cheaper option. Be aware that the pod spaces sell out quite quickly in summer. Another option is to reserve a recliner seat, but these are not made to be slept in. An additional downside is that most recliner seats are in a busy part of the ferry with bright lighting and blaring tv’s. The final option is to simply sleep on the floor (many people do this). Be sure to bring a sleeping bag or something else to keep you warm and comfy. The normal chairs on the passenger deck are not suitable to sleep in.
Ferry vs. flight
You’d be surprised how many of the Orkney islands have an airport! The main one (Kirkwall Airport) is on the biggest island. However, there are no direct flights to Orkney from anywhere outside of Scotland. If you travel from elsewhere in the UK, you will always have a layover. From Sheffield you’d need to travel to Manchester, followed by taking two flights. The flights would cost around ยฃ400/โฌ470 for a return. Even if you were to take the train up to Aberdeen, you’re still looking at at least ยฃ144 for a one-way flight. By comparison, the ferry costs ยฃ25 for a foot passenger when booked a few months in advance. The price of train tickets depends on how far in advance you book them, and of course having a railcard helps. Either way, taking the train and ferry to Orkney is likely to be much cheaper than flying!
Conclusion
In general, travelling from England to Aberdeen takes about the same time in both directions, with 1 or 2 changes. The total travel time to Orkney is roughly 12 hours. Aside from the overnight ferry on the way back (both times I was too stubborn to spend money on a cabin or pod), I enjoyed the journey and would definitely recommend everyone to travel to Orkney by train and ferry. The views from the train between Edinburgh and Aberdeen are especially good!
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